Sultry Days and Nights in the Big Easy
I don’t know about you, but when I think of New Orleans there many words and phrases that come to mind; The Big Easy, ‘The Crescent City, Jazz, Blues, The French Quarter, Bourbon Street, Hurricanes (the drink and sadly the Katrina type too), Mardi Gras, Voodoo, Low Down and Funky, Beignets (K no like – she says they are just Indian Fry Bread Donuts), The Garden District, Beads, etc. etc. So in that vein, I have a couple more to add: Apple Pie, Charred Oysters, Peanut Butter Burgers, Mardi Gras Indian Walking Pots, and Lateefah Wright Clay. These were the new discoveries for us during our few days in ‘Nawlins’.
Our accommodations were decent enough, and we got a screaming deal. We stayed at the Prince Conti located in the Quarter about a block off Bourbon. Let me say there is a reason for our ‘screaming deal’ and why Hotels are extremely reasonable in the City and Quarter this time of year – because it is freaking HOT. And by hot I mean HOT AND HUMID. We did many runs while here, which were great by the way (we zigged and zagged throughout the Garden District, we did a couple of runs up and down about every street in the French Quarter, we ran on the banks of the Mighty Mississippi, etc), but I cannot ever recall being that sweaty. You can’t imagine how sopped our clothes were after the runs. We would hang them in the bathroom, and still days later they were wet. Anyway, it was warm and humid, or as the locals may say (putting a positive spin) just plain old “warm and sultry”.
Now on to the important items like food, drink, and music, I mean we are talking New Orleans here. The food, the food, the food…. That piece begins with GW Fins. Outstanding is all I have to say. Without question I think Kimberly’s Scallops were the best I have ever tasted. I know they can be hit or miss based on just a few seconds of time on the grill/pan, but these were amazingly good. My fish was also easily one of the better meals I have ever had. We could not have been happier with the meal until the desert came. When you think of the best deserts I bet Apple Pie would be fairly low down the list. Well, without question, this was the best desert I have ever eaten. Unbelievable, almost worthy of the trip to New Orleans itself. Truly not an exaggeration, this thing was incredible! That chef cut a deal with the devil (along with a some lard and cheddar cheese in the crust that you could not taste). Do not miss this restaurant each and every time you hit the city.
Next food commentary is the Oysters at the Acme Oyster House. Man-o-man life is just good when you get to sit down and do a few dozen. Had I not insisted to Kimberly she make sure I stop at 3 dozen, I think we may still be sitting at that table. And by the way, I normally just do the raw (and I did a couple dozen this time of course), but I also tried the char grilled. Wowzer! Just get the sauce and parmesan they serve it with on the size, dip just a small corner of the oyster into the sauce, then into the parmesan – heaven, true taste bud heaven!
Okay for the final food comments; (does it seem like I spend an inordinate amount of time talking about food? Well, it is one of ‘life’s true pleasures’. Anyway, with all the seafood and such we had been enjoying we decided on a burger one night. But not any burger, we wanted the best around. The folks at Tripadvisor (a great source for feedback from real people) really seemed to like a place called Yo Mama’s. In particular, many suggested their Peanut Butter Burger. I couldn’t do the PB Burger, but really did enjoy my choice, Kimberly took the PB plunge and enjoyed it as well. Odd but good were her words. Though, the PB burger normally comes with bacon and she passed on that – I happen to think that is what likely made it a favorite with the sweet and salty. Speaking of passing on the bacon, Kimberly also suggests passing on the Beignets (Bin-Yahs). Now sitting down to a Beignet and coffee at Café Du Monde is a New Orleans tradition. Being Ms K’s first NO trip, I had to take her. From my side, what’s not to love about a powdery sugary doughnut? From Kimberly’s perspective, it’s just a mini greasy Indian Fry Bread. I think that will not get her invited to the Louisiana Woman’s Auxiliary Ball.
As for drinks and music – we of course played tourist. The hurricanes on the Patio at Pat’s was a must, a real Absinthe (now that they are legal) at the Old Absinthe House was a given, and of course more than our share of other assorted libations up and down Bourbon. We hit the Blues joints and could several good acts. You have to love that you can just bar hop 20 feet and catch another live act. Man the music scene in this city is as good as it gets. They have more live artists on a Tuesday night in the off season that we have all month. Of course our favorite seems to always be the Funky Pirate, where we were treated to a couple of really enjoyable sets by house band Big Al Carson.
New Orleans is about the arts in just about every way, not just music. The local artist representation is real strong, and you can walk the Quarter and other districts and really get a huge flavor for all the offerings. What I love about it, is what I love about N.O., it’s all unique. No same-old-same-old in this town. And that goes for the potters. We found a couple that just blew us away. One is Lateefah Wright who does very ‘New Orleans vibe’ pieces. She is doing a lot of what I guess you would call dolls in addition to other unique items. She has a lot of pieces at a place in the Garden District called Poets Gallery on Magazine street. It’s a very cool place to check out if you get there. Another we liked was an artist co-op place down south of Jackson Square called Dutch Alley. They have a ton of cool art but I was most attracted (and had to pick one up) the pieces by local potter Joy Gauss. Her pieces are very ‘local’. Her designs include the Mardi Gras Indians (I got a Walking Pot), and some Bone Gangs pieces as well. Some interesting stories behind these two groups, you should check it out. Last “New Orleans Vibe” purchase was a very scary, but quite unique ‘Poison Ring’ for the Mrs. Ummm, it is a coincidence that I just got some extra life insurance a couple months back right??
All in all it was an excellent visit to the Big Easy even with the heat. Of course never enough time to get even close to doing it all. But as always, it’s a great way to leave the US for a few days without really leaving the US.
Pictures, including a ‘city night walk’ HERE